Utterly Buttermere

An Autumn trip to Buttermere takes some beating, not only have all the leaves cleared off but also the crowds of "flip floppers" have too.

If you've never been here before, i recommend you drive the Honister Slate Mine way, the drive alone is a cracker, just make sure your brakes work ready for the decent.

Now in my opinion the amazing thing about Buttermere is that you don't need to climb any fells to get the views, all around you is beauty. My first 1/2 dozen trips here with the "bin lids" & "trouble n strife" we just wandered around the lake.

 But trust me though, them "mountains are calling and I must go" your surrounded by them from nearly all sides, they whisper to you "please climb me" (they don't, I just made that last bit up, I'm sorry I'll get me coat)

Now at the far end of Buttermere is a small fell named "Haystacks" possibly named as the summit resembles stacks of hay in a field. It's a little fell standing only 1959ft and described by Alfred Wainwright as "a shaggy terrier in the company of foxhounds" due to the scale and beauty of the surrounding peaks, of all the fells in this area this is the one I recommend you climb if you get chance, it's one of the few I continually return to.

Autumn is also the time when I also feel less like the "shaggy terrier in the company of foxhounds" as this is the time that the "designer climbers" pack their expensive hardly used clobber away. No more being passed at great speed by couples wearing matching clothes, rucksacks and the obligitory "two sticks each" . I once bought one of these £80 active slim fit wicking base layers and it just made me look like I was smuggling a "Wok"

I think sometimes people enjoy the buying of things for their hobby more than their hobby itself.

So to quote AW for the last time "this is a place of great charm and fairyland attractiveness" in my words it's "Utterly Buttermere" so don't be "unabashed and unashamed" and go and have a wander.

Three Great Walks

To name my three favourite walks in the Lake District is impossible for me, but at least three great walks are possible from this place.

For me on this wander the adventure starts on the drive there, a cattle grid at Elterwater separates civilisation from wilderness or that’s how it feels as you enter Great Langdale.

Now this is National Trust country and most things you see are owned by them, the pub, campsite, land, sky, clouds and also the carpark where this wander starts, it all has that NT polished feel about it.

The well-groomed path to the side of Stickle Barn is where the “stairway to heaven” starts, it’s a path that you will struggle to get lost on as long as you follow the water of Stickle Ghyll to the source.

For all this path’s beauty don’t underestimate the hard graft it takes to reach the top as it’s as steep as “your old nan’s stairs”. At the top your greeted by the intimidating Pavey Ark, Harrison Stickle and the mirror like Stickle Tarn.

Now, at this point the tribes congregate as it is the gathering point for the “jam butty” gangs (that’s if jam butties still exist) you have to be up early to avoid this group of adventurers.

From here you could just “about face” and walk back the same route you just came up, I wouldn’t blame you, for a start you had your back to all the amazing views…

Or for the more energetic adventurer there’s a choice of multiple routes or missions (should you choose to accept):

Route one – To quote Alfred Wainwright “An easy but tedious route”.

Route two – “The North Rake” or the Bear Grylls route, makes you feel like an explorer, a bit rocky but fun.

Route three – Jacks Rake, the “will I see my friends and family again” route.

So I’ll leave it there and let you pick your own route as that’s half the fun of this wandering lark, and remember not all who wander are lost.

A Sunny & Stormy St Sunday Saunter on Saturday with Sausages

Fell Name: St Sunday Crag

Fell Height: 841m (2759ft)

Time Required: 4 to 5 Hours

Alfred Wainwright - Book One – The Eastern Fells

Recommended map to accompany this guide - Ordnance Survey Map – OL5 

      

We get to the Glenridding Hotel at 10am and head straight into “Let it Brew” coffee shop for breakfast, it’s a bit of a trek today so need to fuel up on the Early riser sausage sandwich and Americano.

At 11am were off, left out of the hotel and walk along the side of the A592 towards Patterdale, turn right when you get to Grisedale Bridge, if you pass the Patterdale Mountain Rescue you’ve gone too far.

Follow the road uphill and look for the footpath sign on the left next to a large wooden gate, you can’t miss it, it’s the one with the huge mountain behind it.

Now the pain starts, it’s a relentless slog up Thornbow End / Birks and all the magnificent views are behind you (nearly went into pantomime mode then) it’s a great excuse to keep stopping to admire Ullswater coming more and more into view whilst secretly gasping for breath.

               

The path plateaus bringing respite for a brief period then steeply rises to the summit of St Sunday Crag. If you look to the right (northwest) the infamous “Striding Edge” is clearly visible, and if you look close enough you will see the queue of people crossing.

      

The bulk of hard graft is now behind you, a short wander down to Deepdale Hause and a steeper path to the right (southwest) down to Grisedale Tarn, a perfect place for a breather.

      

Follow the path down through Grisedale past the Ruthwaite Lodge climbing hut following Grisedale Beck back to where you started.

      

Back into “Let it Brew” for Berry Smoothies and the treat of the day, an amazing Cumberland & Sweet Pickle Sausage Roll, a speciality created by Adam and the perfect finish to an enjoyable day in the mountains.

      

Birkhouse Moor - Walking Route

A Glenridding Hotel Guide to the Lakeland Fells

Fell Name: Birkhouse Moor

Fell Height: 718m (2356ft)

Alfred Wainwright - Book One – The Eastern Fells

Recommended map to accompany this guide - Ordnance Survey Map – OL5 

Leave hotel and follow path opposite hotel up to Lanty’s Tarn

Looking back towards Ullswater with Glenridding Dodd on the left.

On the other side of Lanty’s Tarn follow the long path up to the “Hole in the wall”

Looking back towards Patterdale.

“Hole in the wall” on the left, but take the steps to the right.

Turn right and follow path towards Birkhouse Moor.

  

Birkhouse Moor summit.

Walking down through Little Cove next to Mires Beck looking towards Ullswater & Place Fell

 Heading towards Gillside campsite.

Walk through campsite, view looking back to Birkhouse Moor.

Lantys Tarn with the "Bin Lids"

Kids and mountains don’t mix? or do they?

When I first started taking my little un’s to the mountains years ago I used to tell them that there was either an ice cream van or a McDonalds at the top, it would ensure they would only be crying one way.

I soon realised that for all the family to enjoy the day the kids need to be happy, if they’re not, nobody is.

This little route is perfect:-

We leave the hotel at 10am having spent the last 40 minutes fitting walking boots to my youngest, to tight, to slack, wrong colour, my toe hurts. We move onto the coat, to warm, the cuffs itch, it looks silly, I can’t breathe. Gloves and hat we go through the same pain.

The promise of a “fuel” stop at the recently re-opened Mini Market (closed for 12 month after storm Desmond) saves the day, they spend 10 minutes grabbing all they can carry and I spend 5 minutes putting it back.

                     

Then were off, finally walking along the side of Red Tarn Beck, with an amazing view of Birkhouse Moor in front. The route to Lantys tarn is fairly straightforward and signposted but you will need a map (Ordnance Survey OL5).

The route up soon shows you fantastic views of over Ullswater, you get a lot of view for the effort put in.

     

A well placed bench offers well deserved respite then finally Lantys Tarn appears through the woods. I never say it out loud but in my head it’s called “Atlantis Tarn” a prehistoric lost civilisation, a truly magical place.

      

After a short stop we follow the path past Grassthwaite Howe over the footbridge then left, towards Grisedale Bridge.

My Mrs said I needed to add this bit. Just as you get to the bridge look over the wall on the right and you will find a good old fashioned “Roundabout” the kids and Mrs spent 15 minutes on this whilst I just stood there shaking my head muttering “you need to grow up love”.

We follow the road into Patterdale and nip into the Patterdale Village Store for a hot chocolate and a bit of a warm. This was the first shop ever to sell Alfred Wainwright pictorial guides.

The route back couldn’t be any simpler as we just retrace our steps back to Patterdale bridge but continue along the footpath / road back to the hotel & straight into the pool.

And that’s it, everybody’s happy: - I’ve seen some mountains, the Kids have eaten sweets and walked in mud and the Mrs went back to her childhood wailing like a banshee on a roundabout – Happy Days. 

The Ullswater Way in Stile

These next two days have been planned with military precision to get me back to the Beckside Bar each evening at precisely “Beer O’clock”

Day 1 – West Side of Ullswater

No need for crazy early start here, down for a leisurely breakfast at 9am. It’s December so the first steamer that goes to Pooley Bridge from Glenridding Pier is at 11:10am. Back to the beautiful room to get my kit packed for the day then set off to catch the Ullswater Steamer named “Western Belle” at 11:05am.

      

It’s a crisp clear blue sky day so the trip on the boat is spent “up top” a quick stop at Howtown to let folk on and then it’s off again. I arrive in Pooley Bridge at 12:10pm.

Getting dropped off in Pooley Bridge feels like I’ve been dropped behind enemy lines (The folk in Pooley Bridge are really nice by the way) with one mission “get back to where you just Came from” but as its winter and will be pitch black at 4:30pm I need to get a wiggle on.

The first part of the route takes you across open farm land and fields quite some distance away from the lake; I guess the idea of this is to get you away from the road and traffic noise. The lake eventually comes back into view and then it’s a gradual climb through woodland up to Gowbarrow, the highest point of the route with classic views of Ullswater.

      

Back down to Aira Force (Waterfalls) then a low level, near lakeside wander past Glencoyne. The Backside Pub now beckons and I spend the last half hour deciding what pizza will be getting my attention.

Get back to the hotel at 3:40pm, straight to the pool and Sauna for the “Bubble Massage Seat” to mend my weary legs. Out the pool bang on “Beer O’clock” so straight to Beckside Bar and “Relax” an ice cold beer,  then pat yourself on the back for 9 ½ miles in 3 ½ hours.

Day 2 – East Side of Ullswater

Exactly the same start as the day before, with one main difference. The sun has disappeared, low cloud and misty but thankfully no rain.

I land in Pooley Bridge again at 12:10pm but this time I turn right. The route follows the shore line from the start all the way to Thwaitehill Bay then heads inland over fields and through farms. I soon end up at Howtown Pier, my legs are now starting to feel the strain of yesterdays and todays “leg stretcher” only another 6 ½ miles left of the epic journey.

      

The last part of this trail is one of my favourites and hugs the shoreline to the foot of Place Fell, if you look right (west) you can see the Hotel and smell the lager. Now in fading light I need to “up my wiggle speed” to “Dad Run” (10 paces running, 10 paces walking, then stop, panting with a stitch)

Get back to hotel at 4:10pm – pool / beer / pizza / beer / beer / beer (repeat)

Pat yourself on the back for 11 ½ miles in 4 hours.